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This is a pattern for a Tudor / Elizabethan smock with a gathered neck and cuffs, a high collar and ruffles. Here is a child's version. You can see an adult version in the on-line shop.
Garment Sizes
(Note, not your body measurements - a 44" smock won't fit a 44" bust!)
Cut from 45" / 60" / king-size bedsheet
- bust 44" / 60" / 78"
- shoulder 21" or so (very adjustable)
- hem 88" / 104" / 118"
- length 44" / 44" / 56" (adjustable, but alter yardage)
- sleeve length 22" (adjustable, but alter yardage)
- sleeve width 22"
- cuff 9" (so that a tied cuff can be slipped on and off, you can make it smaller if you wish)
- collar 18"
These will fit most people, but sizes can be fiddled within reason. (You may need to adjust yardage. Think twice - cut once!).
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The layout on the right shows 22" fabric, as they used back then. But the panels are arranged in pairs, so they can be fitted side-by-side on modern 45" (115cm) fabric. Cunning, eh? The letters refer the the pattern pieces. The numbers are inches (and cm).
You should use tightly-woven linen, cotton or a blend. The posher the person, the finer the cloth. Fabric was very expensive compared to the labour of making, so every inch was used if at all possible. Hence this pattern which, in 22", 45"or sheet, leaves not one scrap of waste.
At that time, undergarments particularly were often made by halving and quartering fabric widths, rather than by measuring, but I'll include (approximate) dimensions anyway.
Cutting the Pieces - 45" (115cm) fabric
You will need 2 3/4 yds / 2.5m
Click here for a diagram
Start by cutting your fabric in half lengthwise to get (about) 22" width, then cut your panels A - J. You might want to pin labels on as you cut them out so that they don't get mixed up. (The voice of experience speaking).
- A & B: Cut off 44" from each narrow width for A (back) and B (front). (Lengthen or shorten these, but remember to adjust the yardage if you do.)
- Cut off 34" from each narrow width for pieces C to I.
- C: Cut one panel in half lengthwise, then each in half diagonally for 4xC (gores). Each should be approximately 34" x 11". If you changed the length of the body, you might need to adjust these too.
- Take the other 34" panel and divide it into thirds lengthwise (each about 7 1/2"wide).
- D & E: Cut 19" from one third for D (collar). Halve the remainder for 2xE (underarm gussets). Trim these square if necessary.
- F & G: Cut 10" from another third for F (one cuff) and strip the remainder into two long pieces for 2xG (collar ruffle).
- F, H & I: Cut 10" from the final third for F (the other cuff) and strip the remainer in to two long pieces. From each of these cut a square from one end for 2xH (neck and slit gussets) and the remainder is 2xI (cuff ruffles).
- J: The remainders should be 22" x 22" and these are J (sleeves). (Lengthen or shorten these, but remember to adjust the yardage if you do.)
Cutting the Pieces - 60" (150cm) fabric
You will need 2 1/2 yds / 2.25m
Click here for a diagram
Start by cutting your fabric in half lengthwise to get (about) 30" width.
- A & B: One narrow width becomes A (back) and B (front). (Lengthen or shorten these, but remember to adjust the yardage if you do.) You can leave these joined and cut the neck slit, or divide them and have a shoulder seam. It's up to you.
- The other length should have a quarter-width strip (just under 8") taken off one side. From the larger part (about 22" wide) cut off 34" for pieces C.
- C: Cut the panel in half lengthwise, then each in half diagonally for 4xC (gores). Each should be approximately 34" x 11". If you changed the length of the body, you might need to adjust these too.
- J: Take the rest of the wider strip and cut off two 22" lengths for 2xJ (sleeves). (Lengthen or shorten these, but remember to adjust the yardage if you do.)
- F: The remainder of the wide strip should be about 10" x 22". Divide it into thirds. Two pieces are 2xF (cuffs) and the third is for your spare arm.
- D & E: Cut 20" from the narrow strip for D (collar) and two squares for 2xE (underarm gussets).
- G, H & I: Strip the remainder into two long pieces and from each cut 26" for 2xG (collar ruffle), 4" for 2xH (neck and slit gussets) and 23" for 2xI (cuff ruffles).
Cutting the Pieces - Fitted bedsheet
The layout is based on a British king-sized fitted bedsheet measuring 58" x 78" on the top with 10" down the sides. Adjust the layout and dimensions for different sizes or for flat sheets.
Click here for a diagram
Start by cutting off the corner elastic and opening the corner seams.
- C: Remove the top and bottom panels (approx 58" x 10") Cut each in half diagonally for 4xC (gores).
- A & B: From the main panel (approx 78" square) cut 22" from the bottom for D-J. Cut the larger piece in half to make A (back) and B (front), each approx 39" x 56".
- J: Take the rest and cut off two 22" lengths for 2xJ (sleeves). The remainder should be about 34" x 22". Divide it into thirds lengthwise.
- D & E: Cut 19" from one of the strips for D (collar) and divide the rest into two squares for 2xE (underarm gussets).
- F: From each of the other two strips cut off 10" for 2xF (cuffs).
- G, H & I: Strip one of the remainders into two long pieces for 2xG (collar ruffle), and the other similarly for 2xI (cuff ruffles), cutting off a small square from each for 2xH (neck and slit gussets).
On to Part 2 - Making Up
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Elizabethan Smock
Dead Chicken Hats
